Monday, October 21, 2013

Early History of Bucoda

The place that was called Bucoda had at least 2 previous names. Perhaps it was called Byrds before the railroad arrive in 1897. However, there was an official name provided via a recorded Plat. Below is a partial scan of the PLAT OF ARBYRD, DUNKLIN COUNTY, MO. At this point special note should be made that the railroad curves into the eastern edge of the plat. Also, that along that railroad a DEPOT is shown just above the DUNKLIN AVE road. Also of importance is that the railroad was in the process of being built. Also of note is that to the right side of the title of the plat are handwritten words: Now Bucoda and BUCODA.


Below is a diagram I drew duplicating the entire original plat, including  the statement on the original plat, which describes the legal details involved in the creation and recording of the plat. A more readable copy is provided following the diagram.

Thus at that point in time the location at the intersection of Sections 29, 21, 28 and 29 had the official name of ARBYRD. It may have previously been locally called BYRDS.



 Plat BK.1 Pg. 35

State of Missouri           }
Cape Girardeau County}  We A. R. Byrd and Sallie H. Byrd of Cape Girardeau County Missouri owners of the realty upon which the Town of Arbyrd in Dunklin County  Missouri, is situated to wit: SE part of Sec 20. SW part of Sec 21. NW part of Sec 28 and NE part of Sec 29. T17 R8 declare the above the above to be a true Plat of said Town, and do hereby forever, dedicate to public use the streets and alleys therein represented. 
Witness Our hands and seal this June 8, 1897

A. R. Byrd  {Seal}
Sallie H. Byrd {Seal}

State of Missouri               }
County of Cape Girardeau} On this 28th day of June 1897, before me personally appeared A. R. Byrd and Sallie H. Byrd his wife, to me known to be the persons described in and who executed the forgoing instrument, and acknowledged that they executed the same as their free act and deed.

In Testimony Thereof, I have herewith set my official seal at my office in said County the day and year first above written.

My Term of office as Notary Public will expire September 18, 1899

Jefferson W. Limbaugh
Notary Public

Filed for Record June 29 1897 at 10-27 AM

J. B. Blakesmore
Clerk & Recorder

 On this diagram I have tried to place the path of the railroad after it was finally completed, as well to show the later to be built Highway 25, which curved just to the south of the Byrds Store. That highway had reached Bucoda from the east, at Crossroads/Europa. Also pointed out are some buildings, namely the location of the Bucoda Store and warehouse, the house where W.G. Fritz, Jr. lived, and the house where W.G. Fritz, Sr. lived. Pay attention to the fact that the latter house is very close to the point where the depot was situated in the original plat. The east-west portion of Highway 25 was directly in front of our house. Please note the location of the Booker house, which was across the highway from the Fritz, Sr, house and slightly east.  Now read on to see the house W.G. Fritz, Sr. (including me) lived in part time and full time.




Why focus on this house. Well, as a child living there, I played on a mounded area which ran north/south the entire depth of our yard.  It is easily deduced that when the railroad was first being built, that this building likely served as a place where railroad workers stayed for some portions of the rail laying. Why do I suggest this? Well, the house has a very large second floor consisting of two rooms. I do recall that there was a place in the wall where a stove pipe could be attached to the chimney.  That chimney did in fact connect to the stove in the living room and served as our only heat source, except for a stove in the kitchen. The living room was wide. It was almost the width of the front porch and led directly to a similar width dining room. On the west (left) side of the house was a large bedroom at the front, used in my family by the 4 children. There was a regular bed and over/under twin sized bed. There was a closet under the stairway. This bed room opened into the living room. Then more to the rear was the slightly narrow kitchen and a stairway leading to the second floor. On the east side (right),  was a front bed room, used in my family by the parents. This bed room opened into the living room and also connected to the very large bath room (at least 13x13) at the right rear. A screened in back porch was about 1/2 the width of the house. It was not centered as was the front porch. There was an old fashioned hand pump on the porch just outside the kitchen.


Now that I have tried to convince you that the original railroad followed the path in the Plat, I will suggest that as a practical matter, a train reaching Byrds would need to turn around to return to Senath. I suggest that a wye feature was built as the railroad was soon continued to be built as it went towards the south border of Dunklin County as it would eventually reach Leachville, Arkansas.   I'll let you research what a WYE is.

In this picture of a section of a 1901 Dunklin County Plat map, which show the ownership of property, roads and places, I have over drawn a few of the roads which are major. I also mark the locations of where the schools were (over time). Small black dots represent the locations of houses.  Of particular note, you can see the village of Byrds and associated with Byrds is the name Bucoda. Bucoda is the name of the railroad station. As can be observed the railroad runs straight through Byrds on it's way south to Arbyrd,

This wider view shows that the north-south railroad crosses a west-east railroad at a point with the name ARBYRD present. The west-east railroad comes from Paragould, Arkansas, passes through Cardwell, MO, then through Hollywood, MO, then through Hornersville, MO and it eventually gets to Blytheville, AR. The north-south railroad comes from Kennett, MO, then through Senath, MO, then through Byrds, MO, then Paulding, MO and to the State Line. Farther along, it gets to Leachville, AR.


At this point the story about how Arbyrd village became Byrds village and why the Arbyrd ended up at the place where the two railroads crossed. Plus how the name Bucoda came to be located in Byrds and ultimately became the name for the village of Byrds.

The Several Names Associated with Bucoda or How the village of Bucoda got its name.

Mr. Thomas Jefferson Sheppard, a Postmaster at Byrds/Bucoda and a Mr. A. R. Ponder can be thanked for clearing up the naming of Bucoda. The following article was sent to me by Ronnie Booker, grandson of Mr. Sheppard. Ronnie found it among his parents’ keepsakes.

The following is a transcription of an undated, newspaper article, which directly answers the question of how the name Bucoda came to the Byrds, Missouri community. It was first the name of the railroad station. The newspaper’s name is unknown.

T. J. Sheppard, postmaster at Bucoda, has recently assembled some information on the origin of name "Bucoda," which, though it does not entirely agree, will serve to settle a long standing question among the people of that community.

Knowing that there was a Bucoda, Washington, Mr. Sheppard wrote the postmaster of that town, asking for information about the name, and its origin. That letter states that the Washington town was formerly called Seatco, an Indian word meaning "Whiteman's Hell," so called by the Indians because it was the seat of the old territorial penitentiary, which was a very cruel one. A coal mine was located there, and the owners of the mine wishing to market the coal under a new name took the first two letters of each of the three owners' names, and made the name Bucoda, the names of the three men being Buckley, Coulter and Davis. This according to the postmaster in Washington was in about 1890, when the Washington Legislature changed its name to Bucoda.

Using the information obtained in this letter, Mr. Sheppard wrote A. R. Ponder, who several years ago was superintendent of the St. Louis, Kennett and Southern Railroad, now a part of Frisco, asking Mr. Ponder for information about the naming of Bucoda, and the origin of the name.

Below we quote parts of Mr. Ponder's letter which puts forth how the name Bucoda was chosen:
"Will state that this station was originally called "Arbyrd." That was when the railroad terminated at that point. Then one or two years later, when the road was extending on south to Leachville, Mr. Byrd became interested in the town site where this line crosses the Paragould and Southeastern a few miles south of the original Arbyrd [Station] and it was decided to name the town at the junction of the railroads Arbyrd, which left Arbyrd [Station] without a name.

"At this point I was Superintendent of the St. Louis, Kennett and Southern, now a part of the Frisco System, and it was up to me to name the station. I had formerly lived in Washington State at Chehalis and in discussing this matter with Mr. Louis Houck, President of the road, he said, "Give it an Indian name." I thought of the names of the stations on the Northern Pacific and suggested Kalama. That name did not appeal to Mr. Houck and I then suggested Bucoda. He said that was a good short name and the station was named Bucoda.

"You are correct about there being a coal mine at Bucoda, but I somewhat doubt that this name was originally made by taking the first two letters of Messrs. Buckley, Coulter and Davis, as Bucoda is a common name in that territory, there being a large family by that name who are French and Indian. It is possible that the first Bucodas were Hudson Bay trappers, although I am not sure about this. Anyway, the name of Bucoda was suggested by me to Mr. Houck and approved by him on account it was a short convenient name, and we thought an Indian name.

"Yours very truly,
"A. R. Ponder"


It is important to keep in mind that when we speak of Byrds, we are in fact speaking about the same place where the Bucoda village would later be located by simply a name change.

When Mr. Byrd saw that the railroad would pass through Byrds, he and his wife proceeded to have the area surveyed and had a plat recorded in June of 1897. That plat was named Arbyrd and the railroad station was then called the Arbyrd Station. [See the plat previously shown.] However, Mr. Byrd soon sensed that a more important location was going to be where the Kennett railroad crosses with the Paragould railroad just south of Byrds, he suggested to Mr. Houck that the Arbyrd name be applied to that railroad crossing station. Thus the need to rename the Arbyrd Station at Byrds. As Mr. Ponder indicated, the name Bucoda was applied to the station at Byrds.

Clearly, the name BUCODA was introduced into the area prior to 1902. Most likely it was in 1897 or 1898. These are dates related to the time when the railroads at the new Arbyrd were built.

Then there was an Arbyrd Station at the future location of Arbyrd, Missouri (a new Plat for this Arbyrd was recorded in 1918) and a Bucoda Station at Byrds, Missouri.
But, I wish to briefly summarize:
  • 1895 a community named Byrds had a Byrds Post Office
  • 1897 a plat named ARBYRD was recorded by A.R. and Sallie Byrd, with the obvious intent to use the name Arbyrd at the location of Byrds, but it was not fully implemented. Mr. Byrd became interested in having the name of Arbyrd used a few miles south where the railroads crossed.
  • 1897 a railroad was built from Kennett to Byrds and later it continued on towards Leachville, Arkansas that year or the next. The railroad station at Byrds was first named Arbyrd Station according to A. R. Ponder in the article. It likely was named that because the village was supposed to be named Arbyrd according to the plat of 1897 mentioned.
  • Because the railroad at Byrds was now going to cross the railroad being built from Cardwell to Blythesville, it is believed that Mr. A. R. Byrd wished to have the station at the railroads crossing named Arbyrd. Thus, Mr. Houck and Mr. Ponder renamed the Arbyrd Station at Byrds, the Bucoda Station.
  • Later, the community developing around the railroad crossing became to be known as Arbyrd. 
  • 1916 The Byrds Post office was renamed Bucoda Post Office.
I have access to several documents showing Byrds as a community name. Mainly on canceled checks by T. J. Sheppard in 1910. They may be illustrated in the Bucoda Store narrative and the J.H. O’Brien narrative.

The following check shows that T. J. Sheppard had a restaurant in 1910. He also was the Postmaster of the Byrds Post Office in the same building. Notice that the Paid stamp shows the bank to be the Citizens Bank in Senath.








The above check, front and back, is the first evidence for the presence of J. H. O'Brien was in the Byrds area. The check is made out to A. R. Byrd by Mr. Sheppard and Mr. OBrien endorsed it, thus indicating that Mr. O'Brien was likely the Manager of the Byrds Store.


Some Bucoda School Classes

1927 Bucoda School Sophomore Class
Front l-r:  ****Vera Hall,  *Lawrence Skidmore, **Zena Cox, ***Roy Gateley. 
Back  l-r: Violet Smith, Prof. Fred E. Shell, Bessie Rogers, *****Alva DaVault, Eunice Parker (Dunivan). 
*Lawrence Skidmore married a daughter of Roy Jones of Bucoda. He became the grandfather of John Grisham, the famous arthur.
**Zena Cox ended up marrying William G. Fritz and I (Joe Fritz) became her son in 1938.
***Roy Gateley. Many will recall him owning a filling station across the street from the Richmond Theater.
****Vera Hall later became a teacher at the Bucoda School.
*****Alva Da Vault would later become a teacher and principle in the Bucoda school system. 



WHERE THE SCHOOLS WERE LOCATED

A school for the children in the newly developing region of the lower portion of Dunklin County, Missouri was a priority for the individuals who lived in the still swampy region. A well written article, “History of the Bucoda School” written by Cordelia Frie Rose and published in the Dunklin County History: Volume Number Two by the Dunklin County Historical Society (date unknown). [Photos are from other sources.] She covers the history using common knowledge and old school board records. There were 5 distinct school buildings. Some of which were modified after initial construction to deal with a changing population. The following 5 schools’ descriptions are extracted from that article. [Information from Delia Rose’s article is in Italics.] 
This self-drawn map tries to show where the various schools were located. NOTE: The exact location of the Wilson School (1875) is not be properly located in the diagram. The red dot should more properly be located about where the words "Clifford buried here" are located. The Liggett School (1887) is properly shown. When a newer school was built, it was located on property purchased from A. R. Byrd. It was a 1 room building named Byrds School (1895). That building was replaced by a multi-room school building and named Bucoda School (1918). The village of Byrds had changed it name to Bucoda in 1917. In 1940 the 5th and final school building, a brick building, was built on the same property.

1.  The Wilson School (1875): It was then known as the Wilson school, named in honor of John Wilson who donated the plot of ground for the building. This one-room schoolhouse, located one-half mile east of the McGrew farm, was built of hewed cypress logs and was covered with clapboards. The room was filled with long, low benches made of riven planks and they had no back rests for the comfort of the occupants. Since there were no desks in this early school, the children either held their only two books or placed them on the puncheon floor underneath their benches; their school supplies consisted of a speller, a reader, a slate, and a slate pencil. This first schoolhouse was erected by the directors of the district with assistance from other civic minded citizens of the community. These directors were: the president, a Mr. Hillhouse, who rived the boards; Hamilton (Tip) McGrew, who sawed the timber; and J. Riley Austin. Henry Ellis became the first teacher in the Wilson School.

The ground itself was a very small clearing in the midst of a densely wooded section on a rise between Honey Cypress and Kennemore sloughs. Many of the trees in this area reached the growth of eleven feet in diameter; one oak tree was found to have a circumference of thirty-three feet. This nearby woods was the only playground available to the children, therefore, the teacher was ever alert to prevent his charges from wandering too far away from the main building because of the ever present dangers lurking in the woods. Among the woodland menaces were the following: bears, panthers, bobcats, wolves, wild hogs (razor backs), deer, and copperhead, cottonmouth and rattle snakes. On their way to and from school some of the pupils had to cross Kennemore slough and other low water-filled places on foot logs or in boats.

2. The Liggett School (about 1887): During the period of time between the building of the Wilson school in 1875 and the year 1887, the southern part of the community had become much more densely populated than the northern part where the old school stood. It was decided to build a new school with a more centralized southern location; therefore, a new school was erected about one hundred yards west of the Frie place near Kennemore slough and about three-quarters of a mile northwest of the present site. The school was renamed the Liggett school. It was a box house 20x30 feet in size, with eight windows--three on each side and two in the rear--with double doors at the front of the building, a double floor made of rough lumber, the roof covered with boards (shingle fashion), and sides stripped. There still were no desks, but the benches were made from dressed lumber. On June 20, 1896, some additional seats were added to the school. A. R. Byrd built two lots of seats, receiving seventy-five cents for his labor; G. H. Mickey, five benches, receiving twenty-five cents. On this same date the old schoolhouse was sold to A. R. Byrd for the sum of sixteen dollars.

3. The Byrds School (1895): A. R. Byrd came to this area in the 1880s, bought most of the land in this community, established a sawmill near the site of the present store at Bucoda, and began an extensive clearing project. A logging bridge was built across Kennemore, eliminating the hazard of rowing or walking foot logs to school. The new mill town was directly responsible for a tremendous increase in the enrollment of the Liggett school; and, by the early 1890s, it had become quite evident that the old building was inadequate to meet the demands of the growing community. On April 12, 1895, the school board ordered a special meeting to be held on June 12, for the purpose of voting a loan of one thousand dollars to be used in erecting a new schoolhouse; they were to meet for the additional purpose of enlarging the district to extend east to Honey Cypress slough, then south to the township line. Notices of the plans and specifications were to be published in the Dunklin Democrat and posted in the Senath post office and the county clerk’s office in Kennett. The contract was let in August of the same year. It was further decided to move the location of the new school to the present site, on a two and one-half acre plot purchased from A. R. Byrd, about three-fourths of a mile west of the Byrd’s store.

The new school was another one-room building, finished in the latter part of 1895. With the new building came another change in the name of the school; this time it changed from Liggett to Byrds. The Byrds school was evidence of very definite progress in the development of a larger and better school system. The teacher’s desk was at the north end of the schoolroom on a platform which extended across the room, about six inches above the level of the classroom. Slate blackboards covered the north wall behind the desk. The windows were placed on the east and west sides of the building, and the two doors were at the front, on the south end with one on each side. Included in the new furnishings for the classroom were double desks with shelf space provided for books and supplies underneath the writing top. Since two children were seated at the same desk, the teacher must have found it extremely difficult to keep constant watch over the entire group. No doubt many an interesting incident must have occurred the moment the teacher’s back was turned.  One form of punishment in common practice was to make a boy sit with a girl at one of these double desks. The new desks were arranged with one row along the east wall for the boys, one row along the west wall for the girls, and a double row down the center to be used for either, as necessary. The boys used the door on their side of the building and the girls did likewise. The pupils still used slates and slate pencils--tablets were very rare indeed.

4. The Bucoda School (1918): At a special election on June 15, 1918, the community voted in favor of a proposition to borrow six thousand seven hundred dollars ($6,700) and to issue bonds of that amount for the purpose of building  a new schoolhouse. The members of the board at that time were: H. H. Brydon, president; G. F. Holligan, T. J. Stovall, Bert Wilson, A. R. Huggins, and S. W. Glenn. P. A. Frie was district clerk.

The new schoolhouse was a four-room stucco building with two sixteen-foot porches. A hall was built down the center of the building with two rooms on each side. The two rooms on the east were connected by sliding doors, in such a way that both rooms might be made into one large room by opening the doors, thus accommodating community gatherings. The back room on the west side was used as a dwelling place for the family of the principal, C. E. Allen. His wife was the first to organize a 4-H sewing club in this community.

When the new building was completed, the directors decided to add a partition across the south end of the east front room, making a small room only a few feet wide. 
Bucoda School. Date unknown. Probably 1920s. On the right, A Young Ladies Sewing Club at the Bucoda School. This is the room in the front, east portion of the 1918 school just behind the automobile in the picture on the left. Helen Fritz is 3rd from left and Nealie Cox is 2nd from right. The first young girl on the right looks like Pauline Cox.  Picture provided by Helen & Ronnie Booker.


This room was built primarily to be used as a place in which to hold board meetings. It also served as a library and 4-H club room until the library was moved into the principal’s room. Then it became the agriculture and home economics room. Later, it was again used for by the 4-H club girls for their sewing and cooking lessons, having its own sewing machines and cook stoves. Finally it became a classroom when the sixth teacher was added to the faculty in 1936.

...On April 29, 1924, the board purchased a Delco light plant and five Emerson fans, one for each room. This investment was a great improvement toward a more efficient school. The Delco plant served the school’s lighting purposes until the building of the REA line in this territory in 1937. The school decided to sell the power plant and obtain its electrical power from the REA.


Bucoda School c1938-39
On the left side of the picture can be seen early construction of the modern school which opened in 1940.

5. The brick Bucoda School (1940): The present red brick schoolhouse was built in 1940, containing six classrooms, an auditorium, rest rooms, a furnace room, and a modern heating and water system. E. T. Friton was the architect who designed the new structure. The actual labor in erecting the building was done through the W. P. A., with Tom Rickard as supervisor. The first teachers in the new schoolhouse were as follows: Alva DaVault, principal since 1934; Louise Barnes DaVault, Idella Hamlin, and Alberta Palmer, in the system since the early thirties, and Nellie Moore and Ollie Riggs.


The 1940 school building was an enormous improvement over the previous school in terms of facilities. This building had a central heating system, a double room, which was used in my days there as one part classroom and one part auditorium. 

I was told that it was torn down by L. A. Gibson in the 1960s when the school was consolidated with the Senath School System. 

Above is a drawing (not necessarily to scale). It does depict the general layout of the school. It shows the relationship to the play ground, the lunchroom and the related apartments and bus parking area.

When I was in school, the ball field was in the manner as drawn. It seems that was changed later on.

At times teachers taught 2 classes in the same room, depending on the enrollment in the grades. During my year there (1948-49), we had the 5th and 6th grades in the room adjoining the Auditorium. Mrs. Clare Lambert’s desk was near the opening to the Auditorium. 

During the late 1940s, Mr. Greenwood, the custodian, & family lived in the north apartment. The Cross family lived in the south apartment. He was the bus driver. A husband and wife (teachers) lived in the small unit. Floor plans shown are uncertain.